Winner of the Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. His writing is compared to Hemingway's on bullfighting, Burroughs on drugs…
Read MoreWinner of the Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. His writing is compared to Hemingway's on bullfighting, Burroughs on drugs…
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